South Africa Day Five – Namaqualand National Park

Angulate Tortoise making a break for it

Dear Readers, today we had a full day in the Namaqualand National Park, home to the highest concentration of succulent plants in the world, and more than a thousand endemic species. As previously mentioned, the vast sheets of orange and yellow daisies (including many gazanias) have finished, but there was still plenty to hold the attention.

Of course, me being me, I was greatly interested in the insects, like this blister beetle…

And this plant, a member of the borage family, was covered in bees and butterflies, including painted ladies which are all over the Western Cape at the moment.

The rock hyraxes are becoming firm favourites – they seem to be watching us from every rock. They remind me a lot of the marmots that we see in Austria, and I suspect that they occupy a similar ecological niche. However, the closest living relative of the hyrax is the elephant, so they are not related.

This next was a great surprise, however. What the hell is it?

This is a species of fungus, probably Podaxis beringamensis. For most of the time it grows happily in the termite mound, but every so often it breaks out. The termites probably don’t appreciate this, as it opens up the mound to infection and invasion, and I wonder if some of the debris around the base of the fungus is an attempt to repair the damage.

And how about this small army of locusts? We’re seeing a lot of these about this year, and I’m wondering if the early rains have contributed. These are Red Milkweed locusts, and they seem to spend lots of time hanging around and munching on the spring vegetation.

 

This was a great introduction to the plants and animals of the Namaqualand region, and I’ll be posting more when my wi-fi signal permits. Off for a trip around the Kamieskroon mountain range tomorrow. Onwards!

 

South Africa Day Four – Clanwilliam to Kamieskroon

Dear Readers, today we left Clanwilliam  to head north to Namaqualand. Normally Kamieskroon is the heart of the spring flower display in early September, but this year the rains arrived a whole two months early, so the fields of orange and yellow daisies that get so much attention have been and gone. Nevertheless, this is an area that’s still full of interest for anyone interested in natural history.

On the way north, we gradually moved from the sandstone landscapes that we’d seen previously to granite, with a corresponding change in soil, plants and animals. But one of the most extraordinary manifestations of nature’s ability to adapt was in the quartz fields that we passed. On the face of it these are extremely inhospitable areas of quartz pebbles, but in this hot, dry region the quartz reflects the sun, reducing the temperature at soil level up to 10 degrees centigrade cooler than the surrounding air. The plants that grow here have adapted to low rainfall, high temperatures and thin soil in a variety of ways, and many of them are endemic – approximately 80 percent of them are found nowhere else on earth.

You do have to get your eye in, though, as many of them are extremely tiny.

These tiny stone plants, for example, store water in their fleshy leaves. They come in a variety of colours but look rather like jelly beans to me.

These plants spread themselves out to make the most of rainfall when it does arrive, and also have deep taproots

Some even have ‘conventional’ flowers, but these are always small and delicate.

When our guide announced that we were going to walk around on the quartz field I wasn’t expecting to find it as fascinating as I did, but it is truly a storehouse of remarkable plants. So remarkable, in fact, that our guide told us that these plants are now being poached for overseas collectors, hence my not giving details of which particular quartz field we visited. The chance of these plants surviving outside their home is so slim that stealing them makes even less sense.

And then we arrived at the Kamieskroon Hotel, which not only has a Siamese cat and three dogs, but, by some strange quirk of fate, has given me a whole apartment to myself, with full kitchen, sitting room, dining room and two bedrooms. I have no idea how this happened, but I’m just going to embrace my fortune. Tomorrow it’s off to the Namaqualand National Park, to see what we can find. See you there!

South Africa Day Three – The Cedarberg Mountains

On the trail

Well, Readers, after a lovely night in the Yellow Aloe guest house in Clanwilliam, we headed off into the Cedarberg mountains to follow a trail that has been followed for thousands of years by the San people of South Africa. They have left their marks over generations in rock paintings. Nothing really prepares you for the landscape here: I don’t think I’ve ever seen anything remotely like it. The mountains are sandstone, and carved by the wind over generations into extraordinary shapes and colours. Add to this the lichens, the plants and the animals, and you have a truly unique habitat.

As yesterday, I need some time to digest what I’ve seen, and in some cases to identify it, but I wanted to share some photos with you now.

We saw some wonderful lizards…

….some spectacular birds, especially this Red Bishop…

and this lovely elephant shrew, a first for me…

There was also this spectacular cloud…

And then there was the rock art, of course. In some cases, wind and lichen have made the paintings (all made with ochre pigment) difficult to work out, in other cases they’re better preserved because they’re less accessible.

This one shows two dinosaur-like creatures on the left, and on the right, someone who appears to be about to dive into the water.

This one shows a zebra on the left, and below it a handprint. On the right is a group of people walking.

This zebra foal was probably my favourite!

The paintings range in age from 6,000 years to about 400 years – as was the case with the rock paintings I saw in Namibia, the San people were nomadic, and these paintings would have served a variety of purposes over time as they were added to by each subsequent generation. They remain enigmatic.

I was a bit nervous about today – clambering over rocks isn’t the easiest thing what with my balance issues, and the last thing I wanted to do was have another fall. But we all helped one another over the difficult bits, and in fact complete strangers were happy to give a hand up when the going got tough. And the reward is so great. What a magnificent country this is.

South Africa Day Two – The Karoo Desert National Botanical Garden

On the Shale Trail

 

Dear Readers, after a damp start to the holiday we headed off to the Karoo Desert National Botanical Garden, close to the town of Worcester where we spent the night. This is an amazing place, the only botanical garden in Africa to specialise in succulent plants, and it has a ‘Shale Trail’, where the plants are wild, and a more formal botanical garden, which includes Karoo Desert plants, but not necessarily from the immediate region.I hope you’ll forgive me for not remembering the names of all the plants that we saw on the Shale Trail, and if you know, do give me a shout in the comments – the holiday is pretty full on, with not a lot of time for consulting with my guide books. I’m learning, but gradually! However, I did want to share some of my favourite photos, which I hope show the sheer variety of desert-adapted plants that thrive in the harsh conditions of the Karoo.

The more formal garden had some truly astonishing plants too…

I did really like the Quiver trees, with their leathery bark. Each one is so individual.

And this was a Chinese Lantern bush, such a pretty shrub!

And, of course, we saw some animals….this Angulate Tortoise, heading off back into the Karoo…

A Cape Bunting…

And how about this beauty – I think it’s a Malachite Sunbird.

 

And then, we headed off to the restaurant to have something to eat. This was a quirky place – it had an old Canadian organ, and the owner belted out a few tunes for us…

Plus there were a few outsized insects hanging around…

But excitingly, we saw a yellow mongoose…

Well, that was quite enough for one day, and we then headed off to Clanwilliam. Tomorrow we’re off to the Cedarberg Mountains, a UNESCO heritage site because of its extraordinary wind-carved rocks. We hope to have a look at the rock carvings of the San people, and, this being a botanical tour, to find a few more plants to look at. Let’s see how we get on!

South Africa Day One – Off to Worcester

Well Readers, after an overnight flight I’ve arrived in Cape Town and met the rest of the group for our Naturetrek plant tour. Unusually, there are three couples and no less than five single female travellers, so I’m not floating around as a gooseberry. Everyone seems really pleasant so far, and we set off for our trip to the town of Worcester in high spirits. As you can possibly just see in the photo above, however, Table Mountain had disappeared behind a blanket of rain, and so the day continued. By the time we got to our lunch stop, the rain was absolutely torrential. And so we didn’t get to the Botanical Garden to see the tortoises after all, though hopefully there will be lots more tortoises in our future.

To get to the other side of the mountains, though we had to go through the Huguenot Tunnel, a rather remarkable piece of engineering – it’s  3.9 kilometre s long, and was completed in 1988. It’s named for the Huguenot refugees who came to Cape Town originally in the 17th century, after the Edict of Fontainebleu outlawed protestantism in France.

I was wondering what these structures were – apparently they’re made by mole rats (not the naked sort). Also known as Blesmols, these little chaps spend most of their lives digging tunnels with their incisor teeth, Rather like the moles in the UK, these animals are rarely seen, though signs of their presence are everywhere.

Blesmol 0r African mole-rat (Photo by By Sharry Goldman – Cropped from: Seney ML, Kelly DA, Goldman BD, Šumbera R, Forger NG (2009) Social Structure Predicts Genital Morphology in African Mole-Rats. PLoS ONE 4(10): e7477. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0007477.g001, CC BY 2.5, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=8103555)

Tonight we’re staying over in Worcester, at the Habit Guest House. Why it has that name is anyone’s guess, but it’s a very fine building, though the omnipresent window bars and razor wire take some getting used to at first. Plus, this is a first…

So I’m off to make a cup of Roibos tea, and then it’s an early dinner and bed. The weather forecast looks much better tomorrow, so fingers crossed!

Off We Go! Heathrow, Abbie and then off to Worcester, South Africa

Dear Readers, I am sitting in the lounge at Heathrow Terminal Five, waiting for my 22.30 flight to Cape Town. I’ve paid 75 quid for the lounge, but it’s pretty poor to be honest – still, that’s what you get when you’ve delusions of grandeur. There’s some lumpy rice with chilli con carne, and the staff stick a reserved sign on any available chair, even when it’s half empty, so I’ve no idea what’s going on. There is a really splendid view of the run way, so it’s not all bad. And I do have a long wait until my flight, so it’s nice to have a comfy chair.

As I sit here, my thoughts turn to how on earth our cat Abbie is going to cope with just John in the house. As you can see, she likes to keep an eye on me by sitting on the back of the sofa and watching for any sudden movements. John, being a chap, is somewhat prone to sudden movements, which are greeted with a hearty hiss, and a look of utter contempt. But the cat will have to put up with John being her servant for the next twelve days. John already does most of the feeding, so hopefully by the time I retune, a rapprochement will have been reached.

In general, Abbie is settling in very nicely. Sometimes she runs around chasing one of her toy mouse (bought for her by the man next door who was trying to win her over), but then she just collapses, as in the photo above, as if the plug has been pulled out. And although  we’ve never fed her from the table, someone clearly has, as every time we sit down she appears, round-eyed with expectation.

Hey ho. I’m sure that cat and husband will do perfectly well without me to organise everything, and if nothing else, they’ll be glad when I return. In the meantime, there’s a ten and a half hour flight to look forward to, followed by customs/security/baggage retrieval, followed by piling into a mini bus and heading north from Cape Town to Worcester. We hope to go to the Karoo Desert National Botanical Garden, which has lots of examples of the succulents that thrive in this habitat. Plus there are three tortoise species, and mongoose (or mongeese, I’m never sure). I’m so excited! Let’s see what we see. I do think by the time I get to Worcester I’m going to be well ready for a sleep.

Typical Robertson Karoo ecosystem (Photo By Abu Shawka – Own work, CC0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=36580561)

Angulate Tortoise

Leopard Tortoise (Photo By Bernard DUPONT from FRANCE – Leopard Tortoise (Stigmochelys pardalis), CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=40724152)

Parrot-beaked tortoise (Photo By frank wouters – originally posted to Flickr as Beaked cape tortoise, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=3773517)

Thursday Poem – ‘The Peace of Wild Things’ by Wendell Berry

Photo By Paul Danese – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=141414631

Dear Readers, the American poet Wendell Berry died on Monday, so it feels only appropriate to share this, probably his best known poem, with you all. I feel as if I need this today, and maybe you do too.

The Peace of Wild Things by Wendell Berry

When despair for the world grows in me
and I wake in the night at the least sound
in fear of what my life and my children’s lives may be,
I go and lie down where the wood drake
rests in his beauty on the water, and the great heron feeds.
I come into the peace of wild things
who do not tax their lives with forethought
of grief. I come into the presence of still water.
And I feel above me the day-blind stars
waiting with their light. For a time
I rest in the grace of the world, and am free.

Wednesday Weed – Delosperma (Ice Plant) Revisited

Delosperma sp.

Dear Readers, I am in the midst of packing for my South Africa trip, and have suddenly been struck with a wave of pessimism. So many things could possibly go wrong! So I visited  our local chemist, and have purchased:

  • Anti-histamine ointment for bites
  • Immodium for dodgy tummy ( I have never had to use this yet, but if I don’t have it I know I’ll need it) (And yes, in case you’re worried, I would only ever use a small amount to get me through a long flight (i.e. 10 and a half hours from Cape Town) or a particularly long and dodgy bus ride)
  • Nurofen for headache
  • Sturgeron for travel sickness. I am never travel sick (fingers crossed) but some poor soul often is, and it’s useful to have some around.
  • Mini aspirin for the flight ( I have a genetic condition which makes me more liable to DVT )

I already have every possible compression bandage/painkiller/cold remedy that you can imagine, so I am pretty much a walking medicine chest. And hopefully I won’t need any of it.

While I was packing, I suddenly remembered that the Ice Plant (Delospermum) is native to South Africa, so here is a quick reminder of this lovely plant. Last year it was all over the garden centre, this year not so much, which is a shame as it would have been perfect for my sun-blasted window boxes.

Onward!

Dear Readers, the local garden centre is absolutely full of these cheery little plants at the moment, and the ones in my window boxes are positively busting out all over. These are succulents, and so are (helpfully) drought-resistant, a theme that feels more and more important as hosepipe bans loom, and heatwaves and dry spells are likely to become more common.

The common name for Delosperma is ‘ice plant’, but this is also used for a whole variety of what I used to call sedums. Older readers might also remember the name ‘Mesembryanthemum’. There are about 170 plants in the genus, and all of them live in Southern Africa. They are beautifully adapted to dry conditions: their leaves are fleshy and store water for arid times, and the seed capsule opens in response to rain to free the seeds at the most auspicious time. These plants have been flowering consistently since I planted them over a month ago, with no sign of stopping yet! They seem to be attractive to hoverflies, though the marjoram that they’re planted with is a much bigger draw for bees.

Another adaptation to arid living is the bladder cell: this is what gives the plant the name ‘ice plant’, as sometimes the cells shimmer with liquid. They are modified hair cells, and during times of high stress will manage the salt intake of the plant – as less water is available, the salts in the plant can reach toxic levels. There is some thought of using members of the Delosperma genus for bioremediation of salt-logged soils.

Leaves of the Delosperma, showing the bladder cells.

So, Delosperma is clearly a great plant for a sun-drenched south-facing window box, and it comes in a whole array of colours too, from red, orange and yellow through cool blues and icy whites. I imagine it must look strikingly beautiful when it blooms in its natural surroundings. In California it seems to be a favourite in some ocean-front properties, maybe due to its ability to cope with the salty breezes.

Photo One by By Peter D. Tillman - Own work, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=89361118

Delosperma cooperi planting on ‘Millionaire’s Row’, Cambria, California (Photo One)

Remarkably, though, the plant is also very hardy – one gardener that I follow has found that his Delosperma specimens will survive a Newfoundland winter, and I may well leave mine out just to see if they can make it through the colder months.

Although the plant doesn’t look as if it might be particularly edible, it was apparently taken onboard ship and the leaves eaten to prevent scurvy – again, maybe its drought and salt tolerance would have made it appealing. I imagine that the leaves taste a little like samphire. Medicinally, the leaves have been used to make a soothing cream, and have also been used to treat bloating, dysentery, liver and kidney disease and pneumonia. Interestingly, the leaves are also said to contain hallucinogenic chemicals, and a deep dive into the internet realm of people rearing plants for their psychedelic properties reveals lots of folk growing pretty pink succulents and having no success with getting high whatsoever. Personally, I think that the flowers are quite ‘trippy’ enough without eating the poor thing.

However, the Batu people of South Africa use the leaves of Delosperma to make khadi, an alcoholic wine which induces hallucinations. The roots are used to grow yeasts which are then used for beer.

And now, how about a poem, lovely people? I am reminded of the photo of the California coast (above) as I read this. It takes a couple of readings, I think, to absorb all the nuance. W.S di Piero was born in Philadelphia in 1945, and his poems are said to be full of ‘gritty realism’: he also takes inspiration from painters such as Caravaggio and (my favourite!) Carpaccio. I think there’s something epic about this work, as it reaches back in time and then focuses in on the flowers around a child’s feet. See what you think.

Ice Plant in Bloom

BY W. S. DI PIERO

From where I stood at the field’s immaculate edge,
walking past the open patch of land that’s money bounded,
in California’s flat sunlight, by suburban shadows of houses
occupied by professors, lawyers, radically affluent do-gooders,
simple casual types, plus a few plumbers, children of lettuce-pickers
and microchip princes, grandchildren of goatherds and orchard keepers
who pruned and picked apricot trees that covered what wasn’t yet
block after block. Vaporized by money, by the lords and ladies of money,
in one month, on one block, three bungalows bulldozed, and the tanky smells
of goatherds and, before them, dirt farmers who never got enough water,
held momentary in the air like an album snapshot’s aura,
souls of roller-rink sweethearts and sausage-makers fleeing
heaps of crusty lath, lead pipe, tiny window casements,
then new foundations poured for cozy twelve-room houses.
So what was she doing in that field among weeds and ice plant?
The yellow and pink blooms spiking around her feet like glory?
Cranking her elbow as surveyors do, to a bored watcher in the distance,
she fanned the air, clouds running low and fast behind her.

A voice seeped through the moodless sunlight
as she seemed to talk to the flowers and high weeds.
She noticed me, pointed in my direction. Accusation, election,
I could not tell, nor if it was at me myself
or the green undeveloped space she occupied,
welded into her grid by traffic noise. Okay!
A word for me? A go-ahead? Okay! Smeared by the wind
and maybe not her own voice after all. I held my place.
She would be one of the clenched ministers adrift
in bus terminals and K-Marts, carrying guns
in other parts of America, except she dressed like a casual lady of money,
running shoes, snowbird sunglasses, wristwatch like a black birthday cake.
The voice, thin and pipey, came from the boy or girl,
blond like her, who edged into view as I tracked the shot. The child,
staring down while he cried his song, slowly tread the labyrinth
of ice plant’s juicy starburst flesh of leaves.
Okay! He follows the nested space between flowers that bristle at his feet,
his or hers, while the desiccated California sky so far from heaven and hell
beams down on us beings of flower, water, and flesh before we turn to money.
The sky kept sliding through the tips of weeds. The sky left us behind.

Photo Credits

Photo One By Peter D. Tillman – Own work, CC BY-SA 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=89361118

A Quick Walk Around St Pancras and Islington Cemetery

Dear Readers, it’s strange, but when I’ve got a trip coming up I always feel neither here nor there, as if I can’t really concentrate on anything. But a good remedy for that is a walk around St Pancras and Islington Cemetery – it’s one of the few places around here where you can really see the sky (which always reminds me of being in Africa, where the sky seems to go on forever). I was also curious to see how the place was holding up following the drought.

Well, the clay soil is cracking open in lots of places, and many of the paths, even the recently-laid tarmac ones, are full of  cracks. I’m guessing that trees will get the blame for much of the subsidence and heave in London, but actually it’s mostly down to the geology. In fact, taking trees out can make the soil rebound as there’s nothing to soak up the rain when it does come. But there we go. The only winners here are the insurance companies.

My favourite swamp cypress is doing very well, and is even producing seeds this year.

And many of the rose bushes also seem to have done very well, especially the native dog roses and many other species too. The hips will be much appreciated by the Redwings and Fieldfares when they get here shortly.

The grass is still looking very sad, but we’ve had a few showers over the last few days, and some patches are already greening up. I’ve noted before how resilient some of the native daisy plants are, and there are lots of examples of plants that, although smaller and more stunted than usual, have managed to produce flowers.

And where there’s been a little  bit of rain, the birds-foot trefoil has sprung into flower.

So, although the plants look a bit tired and sad, there’s still plenty of life here. There were lots of green woodpeckers yaffling too – I imagine digging for ants (their usual food) has been hard, but a bit of rain will loosen everything up. Talking of ants, I’ve had several incursions of the little chaps into the house when the summer was at its hottest, maybe scouting further afield because of the lack of food. But there’s a definite whiff of autumn in the air already, and the prematurely-fallen leaves are scrunching underfoot all through the cemetery. By the time I get back from South Africa, my thoughts will definitely be turning towards the end of the year.

Bug Woman on Location – A South African Adventure

Dear Readers,  I am very excited to tell you about an upcoming adventure that I’m hoping to share with you all. Later this week, I’m off on a group tour of the Western Cape in South Africa – as this is mostly concerned with plants, my husband is staying at home. Our route is above, and I’ll be gone for about 14 days in total, including two long flights.

I am  slightly apprehensive, as this will be my first ‘solo’ holiday since I broke my leg back in 2024. In fact, I was originally planning to go to Svalbard, but the combination of rough seas and slippery icy landings made me think this wasn’t the most sensible plan. On the other hand, walking amongst the flowers of the Cape in spring is a very pleasant alternative, and I will be fascinated by the variety of ecosystems that we explore. I am ready to learn a lot, and to make friends with some other plant fanatics. I have been to South Africa before, but only for work (with one brief expedition to the Kruger many years ago), so I am looking forward to acquainting myself with this magnificent part of the world.

I am hoping that I’ll be able to blog as I go along, but please don’t worry if I miss a day – there’s always the chance of no Wi-Fi, exhaustion or, indeed, too much of the Cape’s delicious food and wine.

In the meantime, there’s packing to do, and last minute ‘things’ to sort out. But here’s a taste of what I hope to see…