
Du Cane Court, Balham
Dear Readers, I went looking for my last post on our walk around the Capital Ring, and found that it was from November 2022. What happened to 2023, I ask myself? But still here we are, walking boots on (though not strictly necessary for this meander which is only a couple of miles, and mainly on pavements). We start off by passing a queue twenty people deep outside the Apple Blue café – they apparently sell a peanut butter and caramelised apple croissant, so I can see the attraction. But we march boldly on, past Du Cane Court (have a look at the last post linked above for some more on this extraordinary building).
I am so excited to be back on the Capital Ring that I feel a little like Fotherington Thomas – Look, a very big bird’s nest! Or maybe a squirrel drey of gargantuan proportions!

And look at the ivy on this tree!

This is an especially urban section of the walk – at one point in the book there is an apology because we can’t stroll along beside the River Wandle (but more of this later). But I rather like looking at the houses. So much of London is Victorian/Edwardian, but there are always subtle differences if you look hard enough. Look at this plasterwork, for example. Normally what happens is that layer upon layer of paint gradually covers up all the details until someone decides that they can’t be seen so we might as well just replace it with something plain. Someone has gone to a lot of trouble here, though.

In the one below, birds have obviously been trying to nest in the holes above the door. Every house of this style had the holes covered with netting. What a shame! This house looked like it needed a bit of work, while the one next door was in more pristine condition. But how I hate those pigeon spikes. I know birds can be messy, but the poor critters need to live somewhere.

And then we’re on Wandsworth Common, where the snowdrops are in flower.

The Capital Ring guide tells us to ‘march impertinently through Wandsworth Common ticket office) and so we do.

And then we’re into a cul-de-sac which has caught out a number of SUV drivers – presumably they used to be able to cut through, but no longer. There is quite the stramash, but it doesn’t affect us walkers, who pause for a second to take in the delights of the Hope pub. As we’ve only been walking for twenty minutes even we can’t justify stopping for a coffee just yet.

On we go through another chunk of Wandsworth Common. Goodness, there are a lot of fit young people running along the paths, bounding along like young antelopes. There are mothers stopped in what I always think of as a parabola of prams. As we pass, one of them is deciding whether to call their next child Charlie or Ollie, but I’m not sure if she’s being ironic. Every dog is a cockapoo – no XL bullies here, muzzled or otherwise. I think it’s fair to say that Balham is coming up in the world.
An absolutely massive tree has been cut down – I’m guessing oak from the bark. It’s always a shame to see, but at least the trunk has been left, and the fungi and beetles will already be starting their work of breaking it down.

Some new trees have been planted too – the one with the label dangling from it is a European Nettle Tree (Celtis australis). It’s not native to the UK, but with climate change it probably makes sense to include some trees from the warmer parts of Europe.

European nettle tree (Celtis australis)
And then we come to a very nice small lake, with a board walk. I do love a boardwalk. There’s nothing unusual to see but the waterfowl are very friendly (I sense the presence of toddlers with breadcrumbs) and it gives me a chance to admire this moorhen, with her very fine feet.

There are some tufted ducks – I always have a good look in case there’s a scaup or a goldeneye pretending to be a tufty, but no luck today.

This duck seems to have had a variety of species/breeds in its background. I thought it was very fine!

I think the black-headed gulls look very elegant at this time of year.

And this magpie was a jittery little chap, off at speed on a mission. I think I might submit this one to my favourite Facebook page, ‘Crap Bird Photography’ though as you can see what the bird is it might be just mediocre rather than truly crap.

Across the Common we go! The building below is the farmhouse for what was once Neal’s Farm, and there has been a long-running court case because Lambeth Council wanted to lease the building to a private pre-school nursery. The Capital Ring book describes it as a café but when I get home, I discover that in fact it’s home to a garden centre! And we walked right past it! My heart is broken. It’s true that I have not a jot more room for plants, but when did that ever stop me?

Neal’s Farmhouse – children’s nursery? Cafe? Garden Centre? We shall never know (unless you know, gentle readers)
And what is this fine edifice? It is the Grade II* listed Royal Victoria Patriotic Building, built in 1858. It was originally used as an asylum for girls orphaned following the Crimean War. However, there was soon a scandal about the conditions in which the girls lived:
“The orphans lived in hard conditions; they had to pump water up to the tanks in the building’s towers, do all the washing, and be washed outside in cold water. When the installed warm air heating system failed, no fireplaces were built in the orphans’ quarters. The orphans were reportedly abused by the rector, one orphan dying as a result, leading to a scandal.” From ‘The History of the Royal Victoria Patriotic Building’.
Following this inauspicious start, the building was requisitioned during WWI as a hospital for war casualties. Between the wars it became a girls’ school, but then in WW2 it became the London Reception Centre – 34,000 civilians fleeing the war in Europe were detained and questioned here. The intelligence received was useful in a variety of ways, and only 300 were detained for further questioning, with 50 turning out to be spies. Apparently the Reception Centre was an attractive place, with a piano, cinema and library.
After the war, the building fell into complete disrepair, home to thousands of pigeons after thieves stripped the lead from the roof. In the 1980s it was restored and now houses offices, flats, workshops and a restaurant, and is home to the Wandsworth Beer Festival.

The Royal Victoria Patriotic Building.
On leaving the Common we spot this little chap propped up against an Estate Agent’s window. I only hope that his owner finds him soon! As for the prices of houses around here, how we laughed!

And here’s the County Arms pub (still too early to stop for a pint)

And this is Alma Terrace, which is as cute as a button. It’s a conservation area, and I note that these two-bedroomed houses are on the market for nearly £1m. Hey ho. It’s a Conservation Area, which explains why the essential character of this little row of houses has been preserved.

Alma Terrace.
At the bottom of the road, though, is the forbidding and imposing pile that is Wandsworth Prison. It was built in 1851 and was designed to hold less than 1,000 prisoners. At last count, there were between 1,300 and 1.500 men held here. Oscar Wilde, Ronnie Biggs (he of the Great Train Robbery) and poor, unfortunate Derek Bentley were held here – Bentley was executed for the murder of a policeman which he didn’t commit. In September last year, a prisoner escaped, causing much consternation and massive disruption to ports and airports. The escapee was recaptured in Northolt after three days on the run.
135 men were executed in Wandsworth Prison, the last in 1961. The suite where the condemned men spent their last hours is now the prison officer’s tea room.

Wandsworth Prison
On we go, taking a slight detour through Wandsworth Cemetery. They are very clear about their closing times. Clearly it’s not unheard of for people to get locked in.

But it’s a lovely cemetery. Near the gate there are a couple of war graves, which point to the range of ages of those who died in the conflict.

There’s a memorial seat here to remember those who died at Gallipoli…

And I loved this headstone from the 1930s with its Celtic pattern.

The snowdrops are coming out here too…

And look at this wonderful silver birch – I love the new pink growth. What a characterful tree, perfect for a cemetery!

I don’t usually grow polyanthus, but look how colourful these are – I imagine that the owners of the florist’s stall here get a lot of trade from people visiting the cemetery.

And now, as promised, here is our brief glimpse of the River Wandle. This flows through Mitcham and joins the Thames at Wandsworth. It is, according to my guide, one of the fastest-flowing rivers in London, which meant that it could be used to power a lot of industry via watermills – soap and chemical manure was produced along this stretch of the river, and there were small firework factories, set in huts that were spaced along the riverbank so that if one ignited it wouldn’t set all the rest on fire. Today, much of the Wandle is a nature reserve, and I shall have to pop back to explore at some point. However, the water quality is still frequently described as ‘poor’, and an incident in 2007 involved flushing sodium hypochlorite (a cleaning fluid) from Beddington Sewage Works into the river, killing 2,000 fish. The Wandle was, in former times, famous for its fishing, and was described as one of the best trout rivers in Britain. It’s difficult to imagine that now.

I’m not sure why the river is divided like this – maybe to ensure water availability of industry on both banks? Let me know if you have any idea, or any theories…
Onwards! By now we are getting hungry, and are only briefly detained by two noisy squirrels chasing one another round and round a tree. This is the start of the breeding season, and grey squirrel females give the males a good old run for their money, possibly to test out their fitness.
I liked this row of houses on Wellington Road, so neat and dapper! And I love the front doors.

And then we cross the road past the Wimbledon Mosque, opened in 1977 and one of the first purpose-built mosques in London. From a distance I thought that it was covered in some kind of netting, but it’s actually the gaps between the cream-coloured tiles. I especially liked the minarets.

Wimbledon Mosque
Well, now it really is time for some food, as we head uphill to Wimbledon Park station. If you’re in the area, can I recommend Ben Venuti, just down the hill from the station? The coffee is excellent, and the paninis and soup are delicious. And if you should have an urge for a cannoli (and who doesn’t), they fill them with ricotta cheese or pistachio cream while you stand there and drool.

Plus, look at these lovely tiles! If you look closely at the first photo, you’ll see that they used to exist on the wall of the phone shop next door, but have been painted over in grey paint. What a shame.

So, this was an interesting walk – not as long as some sections of the Capital Ring, but we’re building back up to some longer adventures. And on a crisp, clear January day, it whiled away the hours most pleasantly.
You can read more about the Capital Ring here. I recommend it!
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