
The Mose Flood Barrier (Photo from https://www.designboom.com/architecture/mose-flood-barrier-venice-storm-alex-10-05-2020/)
Dear Readers, there was a sense of impending doom in Venice this morning. We were able to get a whole table to ourselves at the Parlamento coffee bar, just along the canal from where we were staying, and furthermore the chocolate croissants hadn’t sold out. The reason was two fold. First up, there was a vaporetto strike, so lots of people were working from home and hence not grabbing a coffee en route to the University or to the other places round about. But secondly, the first serious Acqua Alta of the year was planned, with the tide forecast to reach 120 cm. At 90 cm Venice gets a bit of flooding, but at 120 cm it starts to get serious in most parts of the city. We were planning our day on the basis that we should be back close to home by lunchtime – it’s true that the highest tide only lasts for an hour or so, but it’s easy to get stuck somewhere, and as today was our last day we were reluctant to be caught out.
So, after refuelling (there’s been a lot of refuelling on this trip) we headed off to the Accademia, to see the St Ursula Cycle of paintings by dear old Carpaccio. Sadly, someone (i.e. me ) hadn’t done their research, as the Carpaccios are actually in an exhibition at the Ducal Palace. Sigh. St Marks always floods the worst as it’s the lowest part of the island, so that was a non-starter. We did get to see ‘The Dream of St Ursula’ though, and it reminded me very much of ‘The Vision of St Augustine’ yesterday – the same light, the same precision, the same air of expectation. I also noticed the small cat at the foot of the bed for the first time. Vittore clearly couldn’t resist sticking in one more detail.

The Dream of St Ursula (Vittore Carpaccio, 1495)
Anyhow, not seeing the whole St Ursula cycle means I’ll have to visit Venice again, which is no bad thing. And there was also this wonderful Veronese (probably my second-favourite Venetian painter). Veronese always seems to give a real sense of what life was like in sixteenth century Venice, and got into a lot of trouble with the painting below. It clearly shows the Last Supper, but the Venetian Inquisition were very unhappy with it. What’s with the dwarves, and the drunken people, and the dogs and cats, and the geezer in the bright red costume who looks like Santa Claus? They asked. This is no fit subject matter for a religious painting. Aha, said Veronese, this is not actually the Last Supper, but a depiction of the Feast at the House of Levi. Fair enough, said the Inquisition, no doubt to everyone’s surprise. And so it has remained. The more I look at it, the more shenanigans I spot. It’s endlessly entertaining, and just busting with life.

Veronese ‘The Feast in the House of Levi (1573)

The dog eyeing up the cat under the table, plus the guy in the red costume on the left.

A jester and a servant boy having an argument over a parrot


Incidentally, one thing that I love about Venice is the prevalence of terrazzo floors, and the Accademia is full of them – little bits of stone set in cement and then polished. While common in municipal buildings, you can also see these floors in some domestic buildings, and they’re both attractive and easy to maintain and keep clean. Indeed, it’s noted that when a terrazzo floor cracks it’s usually because the surrounding structure has moved, a not-uncommon occurrence in Venice.

Terrazzo floor
And so, as we prepare to wade back home, we hear that the Mose has been activated. This is very exciting. The Mose is the new flood barrier that’s been installed along the edge of the lagoon, and it comprises a number of gates that can be raised from the seabed at three key locations – the entrance to the Lido, Malamocco and Chioggia. The gates are only raised for exceptional combinations of tides and weather events – there’s no chance that Venetians and visitors will have completely dry feet, as the normal spilling-over of the tide on the canals is essential to not only the ecosystem of the lagoon, but also the sewage system (don’t ask). So, at the moment the gates are raised if the expected tide is above 110 cm, which today’s clearly was. So far, the gates have been raised more than 50 times since they started operation in 2020, whereas the expectation was that they would only need to be raised three times per year. The question of whether this will be enough to save Venice from sea-level rise and extreme weather events remains to be seen.

Acqua alta in Venice, Campo Santa Margherita, 2019 (Photo byBy Marco Ober – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=94906890)



















































































